So you are ready to take the leap from freshwater to saltwater. A number of advanced freshwater hobbyists eventually decide to convert at least one of their aquariums to saltwater. Perhaps you saw a spectacular aquarium at a friend’s home or just need a new challenge to keep you interested in the hobby. With the experience acquired from maintaining freshwater aquariums, it will help you avoid some of the costly beginner mistakes in saltwater. Remember to be patient and research the fish and equipment you plan to purchase.

Beyond the aquarium, what other equipment is useful? Only some of the equipment, like heaters, powerheads and lights can be reused and even they may need to be replaced or upgraded. In general, gravel and substrates, undergravel filters, bubblers, and most painted decorations and plants should not be reused in a saltwater aquarium.

Start by cleaning the aquarium with a warm water and vinegar solution to remove any calcium deposits. There is no need to use soap or any other cleaners. Please note that if you used any Copper Based Medication in the aquarium, it should not be reused for a saltwater reef tank because copper may be present in the silicone, which can leech out and be toxic to corals and other invertebrates. If you only plan to keep fish, a copper treated aquarium will be fine.
Next, soak the heaters and powerheads in a water and vinegar solution to remove any calcium deposits. Clean the impellers of the powerheads and scrub the heaters gently. If your heater is glass, consider upgrading to a Titanium Heater as they are more difficult to break and will not absorb salt. Most powerheads are suitable in the beginning, but some aquarists upgrade to stronger Powerheads as they become more interested in corals.

For smaller aquariums, standard Hang on the Back or Canister Filters will be acceptable for fish only aquariums. For those planning to keep a reef or have trouble with high nitrates, consider a Hang on the Back Protein Skimmer. A protein skimmer is filter that uses microbubbles to remove waste from the water. Aquarists with tanks larger than 55 gallons should consider a sump with an In-Sump Protein Skimmer, Wet/Dry Filter, Refugium or any combination of the three. Be sure to research the different methods and understand the pros and cons of each system.

For lighting, new hobbyists only keeping fish will be able to reuse their current fluorescent fixture, but may want to replace their yellow plant bulbs with White Daylight or Blue Actinic bulbs. If you plan to keep a reef aquarium with corals, you may need to upgrade your lighting to Power Compact, T5, Metal Halide or LED. These more intense forms of light, allow the corals to perform photosynthesis. Please note, the lights do not need to be upgraded before you start a reef aquarium, they can be added once you start keeping corals.

You will also hear about this stuff called Live Rock. Live Rock is rock from the ocean with living bacteria and organisms on it. Live Rock will not move by itself or physically grow in size. Live Rock provides extra filtration, a structure for fish to hide and place to mount corals. The typical reef aquarium needs about one pound of Live Rock per gallon, but this can vary based on the density of rock.

Instead of gravel or fluorite, most saltwater aquariums use Live Sand or Aragonite. These substrates provide a natural buffer against pH drops and will not need to be siphoned if maintained by the proper clean-up crew consisting of snails, crabs, starfish and shrimp.
Finally, a saltwater aquarium requires salt and some way to measure the salt. You should not use table salt or softener salt. Instead, purchase a Synthetic Salt Mix. To make saltwater, add approximately two cups of salt to five gallons of Reverse Osmosis or tap water. Stir until the salt is completely dissolved. Then measure the salinity or specific gravity with a Hydrometer or Refractometer. Most saltwater aquarists will use Reverse Osmosis water, as it is purified and contains no phosphates or nitrates like tap or well water. This will reduce algae growth and make the hobby more manageable.

If you are simply looking for a good saltwater aquarium book, look no further. Many book stores are stocked with books that will only set you up for failure. The books are outdated and contain little relevant information about modern reefing keeping and equipment. If you are looking for a book with detailed pictures on how to start and maintain saltwater aquarium, consider ”The Reef Aquarium, Volume 3,” by Julian Sprung and J. Charles Delbeek.

This book covers everything you would ever want to know about saltwater aquariums. Chapters include the Basics of Aquarium Selection and Design, Plumbing and Electrical, Water Chemistry, Filtration, Water Movement, Lighting, Aquascaping, Foods and Feeding and finally Aquarium Maintenance and Husbandry.

Consider “The Reef Aquarium” your ultimate reference guide to marine aquariums. Each topic is discussed in depth, but is easy to read and understand. The book also provides helpful tips and advice to prevent you from making costly beginner mistakes.

Other topics within the chapters include Sumps, Live Rock Types, Why are Trace Elements Important, Calcium and Alkalinity, Dosing Vinegar with Kalkwasser, Protein Skimmer Theory, Use of Chaetomorpha, Measuring Light Intensity, Zooplankton and Copepods. Once you read “The Reef Aquarium,” you will have the knowledge to set up and maintain a successful saltwater reef aquarium.

If you looking for a Coral or Invertebrate book, Julian Sprung has also written ”Corals: A Quick Reference Guide,” and Invertebrates: A Quick Reference Guide.” These books have stunning high resolution photos of different corals and invertebrates and provides a basic care profile for each creature. If you are curious about different Corals and Invertebrates, then these books are for you!

This article is meant to provide general information about this highly debated topic. If you are interested in any of the methods described, continue to research as each method has its pros and cons.

In this hobby, aquarists are left with four options: Crushed Coral, Live Sand (Deep Sand Bed), Live Sand/Aragonite (Shallow Sand Bed) and Bare Bottom (No Sand Bed).

Near the beginning of the hobby Crushed Coral became a popular substrate. Both Crushed Coral and Live Sand will act as buffer and will provide calcium for corals if dissolved. Crushed is ideal for fish only systems to prevent large fish from moving the substrate and potentially causing a Live Rock slide. It can also be useful in high flow reef aquariums, where ordinary live sand and aragonite would create a sand storm. The major disadvantage of Crushed Coral is it should be siphoned clean of debris as often as every week to prevent detritus from building up.

The Deep Sand Bed is popular amongst hobbyists around the world. Using a fine Live Sand substrate is built four to eight inches deep. The fine live sand is easily blown around by pumps and Powerheads, so precaution should be taken to prevent sand storms. The theory is anaerobic bacteria can grow in oxygen depleted zones and convert nitrate into nitrogen gas. If properly maintained with sand sifters like Nassarius Snails and sea cucumbers, the deep sand bed can provide excellent filtration for many years. Some hobbyists contend that the deep sand bed is like a vacuum bag and once it becomes full, it will release harmful toxins, crashing an aquarium unexpectedly.

The Shallow Sand Bed is a happy medium between bare bottom and a Deep Sand Bed. The Shallow Sand may be built from fine live sand or more course Aragonite one to two inches deep. The Shallow Sand Bed provides little bacteria to reduce nitrates, but is still capable of converting ammonia and nitrite into nitrate with aerobic bacteria like crushed coral. Unlike Crushed Coral, a shallow sand bed does not need to be siphoned, but will blow around in high flow aquariums if powerheads are not adjusted. The Shallow Sand Bed requires the least maintenance of the four described methods.

The Bare Bottom aquarium uses no substrate and relies on heavy water movement to keep detritus from settling. Many reefers keeping SPS corals have fallen in love with their Bare Bottom systems. They are able to move high volumes of water without worrying about creating a sand storm. Most Bare Bottom systems are also designed to be low nutrient systems to enhance coral color. Maintenance on a Bare Bottom system includes daily siphoning of detritus in dead spots. Unlike the other methods described, Bare Bottom systems provide no natural buffer against changes in pH like Crushed Coral, Live Sand and Aragonite.

In summary, you can be successful with any described method as long as you provide proper maintenance. Each system has its advantages and disadvantages, select one that will best meet your needs and level of involvement.

Perhaps one of the most painful and agonizing decisions by any aquarist is to move their aquarium. Some hobbyists take the opportunity to sell the aquarium and start fresh and change those things they would have done differently. For those who want to keep their aquarium, moving a large reef tank will be a full day project and will require careful planning. Ideally, the aquarist would have a new tank set up and running and livestock could be transferred in stages, but this is not realistic for most.

1. Start moving the aquarium early in the morning. This will give you plenty of time to visit the fish and hardware store in case of an emergency.

2. You will need plenty of containers, jugs, bags and towels.

3. Begin by turning off the power to the aquarium, with exception to the Lights.

4. If you have a Sump, drain the sump and remove all the equipment as quickly as possible. Do not worry about cleaning the equipment at this time. You may clean the equipment prior to or after the move.

5. Remove all the corals from the aquarium and place them into bags with a bit of pre-washed Carbon to prevent toxic build up. You may place the corals in a Styrofoam container or cooler with heat or cold packs to maintain temperature.

6. Next remove as much Live Rock as possible. Be careful not to trap fish and invertebrates in caves. You may wrap the live rock with newspaper to keep it moist and then place it into a container. It will not need to be submerged in water.

7. Remove all Pumps, Heaters and other equipment from inside the aquarium.

8. Start Siphoning water out of the aquarium into containers and buckets. Save as much as possible.

9. As the water level drops begin catching fish and placing them into a bucket with an Airstone and heater. To reduce stress, place a cover on the bucket. If you happen to have an oxygen tank, you may choose to bag your fish instead.

10. By now, you should have an almost empty aquarium and sump. In a small aquarium you may choose to keep your substrate, but with a large aquarium you should discard the substrate and start with new. Once the substrate is disturbed, it will release nitrate and debris which can harm fish in a new aquarium. The substrate should be removed in large aquariums as the added weight will put pressure on the seams and make it heavier to move. Use a wet/dry vacuum to quickly remove substrate.

11. Disconnect any plumbing from the aquarium to the sump. You may have to re-plumb the aquarium at its new location.

12. Remove the aquarium, stand, light, sump and any remaining equipment and load it into the vehicle with all the livestock. Use blankets and Styrofoam to prevent the aquarium from sliding and scratching.

13. At the new location, place the stand, aquarium and sump in your desired location. Remember to level the stand.

14. Attach and turn on the light fixture.

15. Place the new pre-washed Substrate in the aquarium.

16. Aquascape your live rock.

17. Refill the aquarium as much as possible.

18. Connect heaters and circulation pumps in the main aquarium.

19. Turn off the aquarium lights.

20. Float the fish, corals and invertebrates. When the proper temperature is reached, release them into the aquarium. Keep the lights off to reduce stress.

21. You should have a semi-operational display aquarium. This is a good time to take a break.

22. Now it is time to reconnect the sump. You may need to re-plumb the return and drain line, but take your time.

23. Once the sump is re-plumbed, connect your return pump, Filtration and other equipment.

24. Add water to the return pump chamber and test for leaks by starting the return pump.

25. Add water into the overflow and test for leaks in the drain line.

26. Mix fresh saltwater and add it to the sump and aquarium until it is at a normal operating level.

27. Turn on the return pump and move the heater and other equipment from the display tank back into the sump.

28. Set up any other equipment.

29. Continue to Test the aquarium’s water parameters. With the new substrate, your aquarium may have a small cycle. Perform water changes as necessary.

Plumbing the Drain

Your drain line is used to bring water from your display aquarium down into the sump. Your drain should be as large as possible, but most reef ready systems use a standard one inch Bulkhead. This pipe size can handle roughly 600 gallons per hour of flow. Many aquarists struggle with gurgling and bubbling noises made by their drain. Most Pre-Built Overflow Kits come with some form of the Durso Standpipe, but you can also build one yourself with parts from the hardware store. The type of drain works by allowing a tiny bit of air into the pipe to reduce slurping. You may also consider adding a union valve below the bulkhead, but above the sump to make adjustments and disassembly easy in case you decide to move or make changes to the aquarium. The height in which the drain exits into the sump may also take some guesswork. Placed too far above the water’s surface will cause loud splashing and placed too far below the water’s surface will cause gurgling.

Plumbing the Return

Your return line is used to send water from your sump back up to the display tank. The standard reef ready aquariums uses a 3/4” bulkhead and most pumps rated for 600 gallons per hour also have a 3/4” outlet. In case of a power outage, you may drill a hole above the pump, but just below the water line to reduce back siphoning. You should also have the return nozzle breaking the water’s surface to further reduce back siphoning. It is helpful to place a true union ball valve on the return pump, this will allow for minor adjustments and easy removal of the pump for maintenance.

Another easy water change modification can be added into the return line. Tee off the return line and place a ball valve on the top and side of the tee. Through a series of fittings, attach a plastic hose that can be run to a drain. During normal operation the top tee ball valve will remain open and the side ball valve closed. When you want to perform a water change, open the side ball valve and close the top ball valve. This will cause water to rush into the drain.

Other Tips

Always remember to use hard plumbing or PVC whenever possible. When gluing two pieces of PVC together use primer and PVC glue to prevent leaks. Whenever flexible hosing is used, purchase plastic hose clamps to secure it to barbed fittings. Metal hose clamps have a tendency to rust and break, which can result in a flood.

In summary, always remember to use hard plumbing or PVC whenever possible. Most Pre-Built Overflow Kits come with bulkheads designed to be used with plastic tubing, replace these bulkheads with slip by thread or Slip by Slip Bulkheads that will easily connect to PVC. You will not find bulkheads at your local hardware store. When gluing two pieces of PVC together use PVC primer and PVC glue to prevent leaks. Whenever flexible hosing is used, purchase plastic hose clamps to secure it to barbed fittings. Metal hose clamps have a tendency to rust and break.